One of my favourite ingredients is in season right now. With its beautiful red stalks and addictive astringent flavour, rhubarb is what we like to call a “cooks’ ingredient”, because rather like quince, it needs to be cooked somehow before you can really enjoy it in all its glory. Despite often being an overlooked culinary gem, rhubarb also provides a number of nutritional benefits.
Recognized for its tart flavour and vibrant red stalks, rhubarb is a seasonal delight that thrives in temperate climates. Despite being commonly treated as a fruit in cooking, rhubarb is botanically classified as a vegetable. Rhubarb has a long and interesting history, with origins tracing back to China, where it was primarily grown for its medicinal properties. Ancient Chinese physicians valued rhubarb for its laxative and digestive benefits. By the 14th century, rhubarb had made its way to Europe via the Silk Road, and it became highly sought after, sometimes even more valuable than expensive spices like cinnamon. However, it wasn’t until the 18th century that rhubarb began to be used in cooking, particularly in England, where it was sweetened and incorporated into pies and desserts.
Rhubarb’s tartness makes it a unique ingredient in both sweet and savoury dishes. The most common use of rhubarb is in desserts, particularly pies, crumbles, and compotes. When cooked with sugar, rhubarb softens into a tangy, flavourful filling that pairs exceptionally well with strawberries, along with orange, vanilla, ginger, pear, coconut, almond, lemon, and rosewater.
In addition to desserts, rhubarb can be used in jams, chutneys, and even savoury sauces. Some chefs incorporate rhubarb into meat dishes, particularly with pork or duck, where its acidity balances the richness of the meat. It can also be pickled or blended into refreshing beverages like rhubarb lemonade.
At our restaurant, we are serving rhubarb as a garnish for our local suckling pig with anise, but at home I love to make a classic crumble with strawberries, or a simple Panna cotta flavoured with rhubarb and rosewater. It’s a great composition!
Panna cotta with roasted rhubarb & rosewater
Serves 4
For the roasted rhubarb
- 500g rhubarb, cut into 3cm pieces
- 2 tbsp caster sugar
- 4 tbsp apple juice
- ½ tsp rosewater syrup
- For the panna cotta
- 75g caster sugar
- 150ml cream
- 2 leaves gelatine, soaked in a bowl of water until soft, squeezed dry
- 300ml buttermilk
Method
- For the roasted rhubarb, preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6.
- Place the rhubarb onto a roasting tray, sprinkle over the sugar then drizzle over the apple juice. Roast in the oven for 8-12 minutes, or until just tender. Blend 125g of the roasted rhubarb to a purée in a food processor and add the rosewater syrup. Remove to bowl and add the remaining roasted rhubarb.
- For the panna cotta, bring the sugar and cream to a simmer in a pan, stirring continuously until all the sugar has dissolved. Add the softened gelatine leaves and continue and remove from the heat until dissolved, then set aside to cool slightly. Add the buttermilk and stir until well combined. Pour the mixture into glass and chill in the fridge for at least1-2 hours, or until set.
- To serve, remove the panna cotta from the fridge. Spoon the rhubarb mixture over the set panna cotta and serve immediately. (Reheat the roasted rhubarb if desired.)
Rhubarb & Ginger crumble
Serves 4
- 400g rhubarb, chopped into large chunks
- 300g fresh strawberries, hulled
- 120g sugar
- 3tbsp red wine (optional)
- 3tbsp water
- A pinch of powdered ginger
FOR THE CRUMBLE
- 100g unsalted butter, chilled
100g plain flour, sifted
100g Demerara sugar
80g ground almonds
Pinch of salt
Method
- Place the chopped rhubarb in a medium-sized pan; add the sugar, wine, water & ginger. Cook and cook over a medium heat until the fruit starts to soften and releases its juices, about 15-20 minutes. Add the fresh strawberries and cook for another 5 minutes. Pour the rhubarb mix into a medium baking dish.
- Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
- Place the flour, Demerara sugar, almonds and butter in a food processor until the mixture resembles course breadcrumbs.
- Spread the crumble topping evenly and generously over the fruit, and bake for 20 minutes until the fruit is bubbling hot and the topping is golden.
- Serve warm with vanilla ice cream or custard.